The short summary: BEAUTIFUL, tropical, two cold/rainy days without heat, lots of bus rides, passport stamps!, seafood, walled cities, paradise!
The long: We left Vienna on an overnight bus on Friday (3/15). Upon boarding, we quickly realize that absolutely nobody spoke English on the bus- drivers included, and there was no bathroom for our 12.5 hour journey?? We left right on time, and Kelly, Caroline and myself decided we were going to try an stay up until around 11 and then hopefully sleep until we got to Split
at 6:30am. Part way through, we began to realize that we were stopping every 1-2 hours for a bathroom (or more importantly for the Europeans- smoke) break. We also stopped in various cities to drop people off. To get to Croatia from Vienna, you have to pass through Slovenia. We got there around
11pm and had to get off the bus, walk across the border, and get our passport stamped!
We tried then to sleep, but none of us slept very well due to the stop/go every hour or so throughout the night. Plus the bus was about 95 degrees and we had planned for the opposite! We had a minor panic attack when we thought we missed our stop around 5:30am- we were sort of awake and heard the driver announce a town also starting with "Sp..", we figured it wasn't ours but after leaving the stop we saw many signs and boats labeled with the word "Split"?? We tried asking, but as mentioned there was a very severe language barrier. We hoped for the best, and did eventually end up in Split a few stops later!
We got off in Split
at 6am, with our backpacks packed for 8 days, and into 7° Celsius weather. We were too optimistic in heading straight to our hostel to try and drop off our bags. After many wrong turns, we found our hostel but the reception was not there yet and we couldn't get in. Caroline and I had packed surprisingly light (I know that's hard to believe, Mom and Dad..), but Kelly had not and was struggling with her bag. We ended up heading back towards the bus stop/harbor to try and find a cafe to camp out in for a while and get some caffeine to assist with our 2-3 hours of sleep.
Around 9 we headed back up to our hostel and were able to completely check in. They had upgraded the three of us to a private five person room, which was actually quite beautiful! We were able to change and wash up before heading out to explore Split.
It ended up being a beautiful day, a little chilly (mid 50s) but brilliantly sunny! We walked around the market and then went to the "balcony on the hill" as our hostel receptionist called it. She said it was a balcony up a few flights of stairs where you could get great views of the harbor and the town. It ended up being much closer to a mountain than a flight of stairs, but she was right about the view!
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Split, Croatia |
Later in the afternoon, we stumbled upon an apparent Croatian tradition while we were searching for more caffeine! Along the promenade (much like a fancier Venice boardwalk), cafes had outdoor seating where every family and person in Split were out enjoying the sunny Saturday afternoon. It was difficult to find a table, but when we did we sat and had coffee in the sun for nearly 2 hours- people watching and soaking in the warmth of the sun!
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Sunset in Split |
We headed to a late dinner, by then the promenade was completely empty- and went to bed early, the caffeine had worn off and we were exhausted!
The next morning, we were off to Dubrovnik- another 4.5 hour bus ride- but this one at least had spectacular views of the coast! Looking back at a map, you will notice that Croatia is actually split into two different sections. You may have to zoom in quite a bit to notice that Bosnia & Herzegovina extends to the coast for a few miles, meaning you have to pass through there to get from Split to Dubrovnik! We had a rest stop there and were able to get out, take pictures and say that we have officially been to Bosnia now!
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Drive along the Adriatic Coast |
We got to Dubrovnik
at 2:30, checked in to our hostel and spent the rest of the afternoon sight seeing and getting our bearings. Dubrovnik is an incredibly unique town- the old part of town is walled in from the medieval times and there are only two entrances to the city. All of the buildings are white with red/orange roofs. The old town reminded us a lot of Venice- cars are not allowed inside the walls so the "streets" are narrow alleyways. Croatia overall was a mix of what I imagine Greece and Italy to be, however this could be very, very wrong!
We went to the "hole in the wall" bar for a drink before dinner and to watch the sunset. The bar was literally that- a hole in the wall to enter onto a cliff on the outside of the city walls, above the Adriatic Sea! Unfortunately it was freezing and windy, and the clouds prevented there from being much of a sunset.
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Entering the "Hole in the Wall" |
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"Hole in the Wall" Bar
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Dinner was at a local seafood restaurant- the other girls got cuttlefish risotto, and were not expecting it to be black due to the cuttlefish ink! They were a little grossed out and didn't eat too much of it. I had seafood risotto (it was red..), and it was delicious!
Monday was rainy, windy and cold, but we ventured out for a good portion of the day. Our fourth traveler had arrived the night before, so we showed her around Old Town and ventured out of the walls for the afternoon. We went to a cute little cafe partway through the day to warm up and get some coffee. We also spent some time watching the waves, which were spectacular! We were joking earlier about how that had been a recommended activity for a rainy day in the city, but it was great! The beaches in Croatia are mostly rock beaches, and the huge waves were breaking against them and spraying everywhere!
The buildings in Croatia are not heated, so on days like this rainy one it is almost impossible to get warm after being chilled! Our space heater in our room had been taken away the night before since it had blown a fuse, so we were reluctant to go back to our hostel the next day for too long, so we spent lots of time wandering through various stores to try and stay warm. It ends up that our heater wasn't the problem, and we got it back that night! There was also a hot water problem at the hostel- so needless to say we were very cold most of the time we were in the country, unless we were in the sun or cocooned in our beds!
Tuesday was sunny and warmer, so we were up early to make the best of it! The #1 recommended tourist activity is to walk the city walls, so we did that first. It was exactly what it sounds like- you can take your time to walk along the top of the 3 mile long wall surrounding Old Town. It had amazing views of the coast and of the town, and since it is still off-season it was not crowded at all!
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Old Town Dubrovnik |
After walking the walls, we got a quick coffee/snack in the sun and headed out to find a beach. It was far too cold to swim, but we wanted to walk along one and at least say we had been to one! We asked our hostel manager for directions and headed out of the walls! It took us a while to find it since we were looking for a sand/pebble beach, instead it was basically a cliff. I'm not even sure how you would swim there! The tide was coming in and the waves were breaking and spraying on the rocks, so we found a dry place to sit and watched for a while.
That night we decided to find somewhere to watch the sunset, and hiked out the south end of the walls for about 40 minutes. We found a park towards the top of the hill and posted up on a ledge. We could see all of old town and watched the sunset over the water. It was beautiful!
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Looking back at Old Town |
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Sunset! |
On Wednesday we took a day trip to Montenegro, a tiny country south of Croatia. This was the best part of the whole trip, and I'm so glad we went! The weather was great and the country was beautiful- plus we got two passport stamps! We stopped in multiple cities and locations throughout the day. Our group consisted of us four, two British women, an older Canadian man, and our tour guide Ivona.
The two main cities we stopped in were Kotor and Budva. Both were similar to Dubrovnik in that they were walled in, but they were much less touristy and much smaller. We had 90 minutes in each and used up all of our time walking around taking pictures and exploring. Budva had sandy beaches, so we finally got our beach picture!
Montenegro was not at all what I was expecting, but I loved it! It was a perfect mix of everything- beaches, palm trees, mountains, harbors, forest...! I also enjoyed that compared to Dubrovnik it was not as tourist driven so we got a better taste of the local culture.
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Bay of Kotor |
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Budva, Montenegro |
That evening we went to a wine bar, which is a popular nightlife activity in Croatia. They had an option to taste either 3 white or red wines. I chose the red, and the owner walked us through each one explaining how they were made and what we should be tasting. He also gave us a card we could keep that visually showed us how the wines differed. The reds were interesting because they all came from the same region of Croatia and were made from the same grape. They tasted very different though, and he explained why that is the case- mostly it had to do with the slope on which they were grown and the sunlight that hit them. One of the wines was very fruity, the other two were more dry and heavy. Afterward, he asked about our prior wine tastes and guessed our favorite of the three- he got mine right!
Thursday was rainy again, but just a light drizzle and far less windy than Monday. We went to a cafe, walked around more of Dubrovnik and did some souvenir shopping! We also walked around at night, once the rain had stopped to get some night time pictures of the city!
Friday we were headed back to Split for the night. Our 5 hour bus left at 11, but we got up early to enjoy our last morning in the sun. We went to the market and got fruit, and then sat and had coffee in the sun. We had to head to the bus station around
10:15, and got into Split
at 3:30.
In Split we went to the palace ruins that we had missed on our way through a week before. Inside it had been transformed into shops, hotels, and cafes, which sort of took away from the beauty of the ruins- but the business major in me gets it!
We had a late dinner after watching the sunset, and headed back to the hostel to shower and catch a little but of the Illini game!
Saturday morning, we left Split
at 7am and got to Zagreb, the capital, at 12. After three hours there- lunch and spending our last currency, we boarded our final bus back to Vienna!
We were all happy to get home- it's funny how fast Vienna has become our comforting home. I hope to get back to Croatia someday (hopefully when it's a bit warmer!) - it was so unique and insanely beautiful! Looking back on our postcards we bought, it actually looks like a postcard in real life!